In short: If your water heater is leaking, shut off the cold water supply valve on the pipe going into the tank, then turn off the heater's power at the breaker, or turn a gas heater's control to off. Keep away from the hot water, find where the leak is coming from, and get the floor and anything wet drying within 24 to 48 hours. A leak from the bottom of the tank usually means the heater needs replacing; a drip from a fitting may be a simple repair.
Step by step
Stop the water
Close the cold water inlet valve, usually on the pipe at the top of the tank. If you can't find it or it won't turn, close the main water shut-off for the house.
Cut the energy
For an electric heater, switch off its breaker. For a gas heater, turn the control to off. If you smell gas or hear hissing, leave the house right away and call the fire department from a safe distance, as the Red Cross advises.
Don't touch the hot water
A full tank can be hot enough to scald, so let it cool before working around it.
Keep clear of electricity
If water has reached outlets, cords or the electrical panel, don't wade in; call an electrician.
Photograph, then move things
Photograph the leak and the wet area, then move belongings out of the water.
Call a licensed plumber
To repair or replace the heater.
Where is it leaking from?
| Where | What it usually means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Fittings at the top | A loose or corroded connection on the water lines | Often a simple repair for a plumber |
| The temperature and pressure relief valve | Too much pressure or heat inside the tank | Call a plumber. It's a safety device: never cap or plug it |
| The drain valve near the bottom | A loose or worn valve | Sometimes it just needs tightening or replacing |
| The bottom of the tank | Corrosion inside the tank | The heater generally needs replacing |
Cleaning up
Water heater leaks are usually clean water, which is the easiest kind to recover from if you move fast. EPA's guidance is to dry water-damaged areas within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold. Its cleanup table says to extract water from carpet and dry it with dehumidifiers and fans, and that drywall may be dried in place if it isn't swollen and the seams are intact. Heaters often sit in basements and utility closets next to finished walls, so check the drywall, the baseboards and the flooring in the next room too: water travels under them.
Will insurance cover it?
Policies differ, so read yours, but homeowners policies commonly treat a sudden leak differently from a slow one. Sudden water damage to floors and walls is often covered; the worn-out heater itself, and damage from a leak that went on for months, often isn't. Michigan's Department of Insurance and Financial Services advises calling your insurer as soon as possible, taking reasonable steps to prevent further damage, keeping receipts, and photographing the damage before cleanup.
Can a leaking water heater be repaired?
If the leak is at a fitting or the drain valve, often yes. If the tank itself is leaking from the bottom, it generally needs replacing.
Is the water from a water heater clean?
Usually it's clean water, the easiest kind to dry, as long as the drying starts within a day or two.
Will insurance pay for a new water heater?
Usually not for the heater itself, which is treated as wear and tear, but often for sudden water damage to floors and walls. Check your policy.
Sources
- American Red Cross: Checking your home's utilities, systems and household items
- EPA: A brief guide to mold, moisture and your home
- EPA: Water damage cleanup and mold prevention, Table 1 (PDF)
- Michigan DIFS: Disaster preparedness and recovery
- Michigan DIFS: Homeowners insurance policies, how to claim what is yours (PDF)
